Check whether your speakers, earphones, or headphones are actually producing sound — right in your browser. No install, free.
This page never asks for any permission — not microphone, not camera, nothing.
It's the simplest kind of page: press a button and it plays a test sound. Nothing more. Use it with peace of mind.
(The test sound is generated inside your own device. No information ever leaves this page.)
🔉 Before you start: turn your volume down a bit.
If you're wearing earphones or headphones, take them off first or lower your device volume. Every test sound plays at a modest volume for a short time and stops automatically.
Your browser can't play test sounds.
Please try the latest version of Chrome, Edge, Safari, or Firefox.
① Left/Right (L/R) Check
Checks whether your earphones' left and right channels are swapped, or whether one side isn't playing at all. The side that's playing lights up blue below.
Left (L)
Right (R)
What did you hear?
· Pressed "left only" but heard it on the right → your earphones' L/R is swapped (check the L/R markings).
· Nothing from one side → possible loose connection or a break in the cable, or the OS balance setting is off-center. Re-seat the plug, then see the checklist below.
· Nothing from either side → check your volume and mute settings, then see the checklist.
② Volume Test
Raises the volume step by step from quiet to loud, so you can see how loud it needs to be before you hear it. Always start from the left (quietest) and work your way up.
What did you hear?
· Only audible at a high % → your device volume may be low, or a per-app volume mixer is turned down.
· Not audible even at 100% → sound is likely going to a different device (e.g. Bluetooth). See item ① in the checklist.
③ Frequency Test (low to high)
Checks which pitches, from low to high, your speaker or earphone can actually reproduce.
Now playing 60 Hz
Not hearing the high tones (12kHz, 15kHz, etc.) does not mean anything is broken.
Hearing loses sensitivity to high frequencies as we age — this is completely normal (the "mosquito tone" effect). Most adults can't hear 15kHz, and that's perfectly ordinary. Neither your speaker nor your ears are necessarily at fault.
Also, small speakers and the built-in speakers on laptops and phones physically can't reproduce much bass (around 60Hz). Not hearing 60Hz, or hearing it only faintly, is normal — not a malfunction.
🎤 Want to check whether your microphone reaches the other side? Try our sister site
micsound — Mic Test.
How to Use
Turn your device volume down, then press "Play left only" in section ①.
If you hear a tone, that speaker (or earphone) is alive. If not, slowly raise the volume.
Check left, right, and both, then use ② and ③ to check volume and pitch as well.
Every sound stops automatically after 1–2 seconds (about 8 seconds for the continuous sweep). You can stop it any time by pressing the same button again or "Stop sound."
This page has no way to mechanically detect, from the computer or phone's side, whether sound actually came out. You are the judge — your ears are the test. Follow the "What did you hear?" guidance under each test.
Checklist: No Sound at All
If you can't hear the test sound at all, don't assume your speaker or earphones are broken — work through this list from the top. A setting is very often the real cause.
① Output device — Check that sound isn't being sent to a different device.
Windows: Click the speaker icon in the taskbar, then the volume-bar arrow (or ">") to open the list of outputs and pick the speaker or earphone you want.
Mac: Go to "System Settings → Sound → Output" and choose your output device (or hold Option while clicking the menu-bar volume icon to switch quickly).
Phone: If a Bluetooth device is connected, sound goes there. Check the output in Control Center (iPhone) or the notification panel (Android).
② Mute and volume — Check the device's own volume, any hardware mute key (a speaker icon with a slash), and per-app volume (e.g. Windows' "Volume mixer"). Some earphone cables or headsets also have their own volume dial or mute switch.
③ Bluetooth connection — Bluetooth earphones are frequently connected to a different device (like a phone) instead of the one you're using. Temporarily turn off Bluetooth on the device you're not using, or re-pair. A dead battery or forgetting to power the earphones on is also common.
④ Re-seat the plug — For wired earphones or speakers, unplug and firmly re-insert the plug all the way in. A half-inserted plug can cause "only one side plays" or crackling noise. Front-panel jacks on desktop PCs are sometimes not wired — try the back panel too. For USB speakers, try a different USB port.
⑤ Check for a muted browser tab — If the tab shows a speaker icon with a slash through it, right-click (or long-press) the tab and choose "Unmute tab."
Still no sound after all of this? Try a different pair of earphones or speakers on the same device. If the other one works, the original device is likely faulty; if neither works, the issue is on the device side (settings, port, or driver).
Common Sound Problems and Fixes
Only one side (left or right) plays
First use section ① above to identify which side is silent.
For wired earphones, a half-inserted plug is by far the most common cause. Push it in firmly, all the way, and gently twist the base to check whether sound cuts out (if it does, the cable is likely fraying).
Check whether the OS's left/right balance setting is off-center (Windows: Settings → System → Sound → output device properties; Mac: System Settings → Sound → Output balance; iPhone: Settings → Accessibility → Audio/Visual).
Fully wireless earphones can have one earbud lose its battery or connection independently. Put both back in the case and reconnect.
No sound, or cutting out, from Bluetooth earphones
Even if it shows as "connected," the output device may still be set to the built-in speaker. Reselect the earphones from the output list.
If paired with multiple devices, sound goes to whichever connected first — turn off Bluetooth on the device you're not using.
If nothing else works, the most reliable fix is to remove the pairing and pair again from scratch.
Crackling or dropouts are often caused by radio interference (microwaves, crowded areas) or distance — not necessarily a fault.
Only the other person's voice is missing in a video call (Zoom, Teams, etc.)
If you can hear the test sound on this page, your speaker is fine — the cause is almost certainly an app-level setting.
Check the app's audio settings to confirm the speaker (output device) is set to the one you want to use. Leaving it on "default device" can silently route sound elsewhere.
If the app has a "test speaker" button, use it. Often the simple explanation is that the other person is muted.
Sound is quiet or muffled
Check both the device volume and the per-app volume (mixer) — raising only one can still leave it quiet.
Bluetooth earphones sound muffled by design while the microphone is also active during a call — this isn't a malfunction.
Earwax or dust in the earphone mesh can muffle sound. Gently clean it with a dry brush.
Crackling or static noise
For wired connections, start by re-seating the plug — dirt or a poor contact at the plug or jack is the usual cause.
If the noise changes when you move the cable, that's a sign the cable is starting to fray.
A faint hiss from a PC's headphone jack can sometimes just be that device's normal behavior — try USB or Bluetooth to see whether it disappears, which helps narrow down the cause.
FAQ
Q. Does using this page record or send anything?
A. No. This page never asks for microphone or any other permission — it only generates a test sound inside your device and plays it. No information is ever sent from this page.
Q. I can't hear 15kHz. Are my earphones broken?
A. Not necessarily. It's normal for high-frequency hearing to decline with age, and most adults can't hear 15kHz — that's entirely ordinary. If you can hear the mid tones (440Hz, 1kHz), your earphones are producing sound just fine.
Q. I can barely hear 60Hz (deep bass).
A. Small speakers and the built-in speakers of laptops and phones physically can't reproduce much bass. This, too, is normal and not a malfunction.
Q. Does this work on a phone?
A. Yes — it's handy for checking earphone left/right, for example. Note that on iPhone, if the physical mute switch is on (silent mode), browser sound may not play either.
Q. No sound plays at all. Is this page broken?
A. Test sounds play at a modest volume. First raise your device volume, then work through the checklist above (output device, mute, Bluetooth, muted tab).